This small lake to the west of Lago Maggiore is one of the loveliest places I have ever been. It is telling that the Milanese call it La Cenerentola (Cinderella) because they have long considered it the secretly superior sibling to the larger, money-blighted lakes of Como and Maggiore. But, for me, what sets Orta apart is not its beauty – though the place is absurdly pretty – but the lake's mysterious, ethereal, almost supernatural quality. There is something for the soul there as well as for the eye.